Top Bouldering Spots Near Parksville, Your Guide to Adventure
Bouldering, a form of rock climbing performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses, is rapidly gaining popularity. Vancouver Island, with its rugged terrain and stunning natural beauty, offers some of the best bouldering opportunities in Canada. Whether you're a seasoned climber or a beginner looking to try something new, the areas around Parksville, especially near Beach Acres Resort, provide excellent spots for bouldering. Here's your guide to the top bouldering locations, essential gear, and tips for an unforgettable adventure.
Top Bouldering Locations Near Parksville
1. Little Mountain
- Description: Little Mountain is a near kilometre-long crag that wraps around the back of the mountain, known for its sport climbing routes.
- Climbing Types: Sport climbing.
- Routes: 11 routes.
- Local Beta: Park at the top of Little Mountain and head on the left trail where you will find a not-too-obvious junction. Scramble down that trail, follow the trail right (facing the old bridges) towards the crags. The area can get slippery after rain, so plan your visit during dry conditions for the best experience.
2. Horne Lake
- Description: Horne Lake provides the best steep, hard sport climbing on the island, making it ideal for those who enjoy steep jug hauling and knee bars. The area is known for its high-quality limestone routes.
- Climbing Types: Mostly sport climbing.
- Routes: 149 sport climbing routes.
- Local Beta: Do not camp in the climbing parking lot as it is private property. Illegal camping jeopardizes access for all climbers. There is camping available at Horne Lake Regional Park. The approach involves a turn off Inland Island Highway 19 onto Horne Lake Road, followed by a 10-minute drive on Horne Lake Caves Road.
- Access Issues: Private property. Respect fire closures, especially in July and August.
3. Mount Benson
- Description: Mount Benson is a 3,300-foot basalt peak that dominates the western skyline of Nanaimo. Most of the established rock climbing is within Mount Benson Regional Park.
- Climbing Types: Sport climbing and trad climbing.
- Routes: 185 routes.
- Local Beta: The best climbing conditions are found in the spring and summer. The Regional District of Nanaimo recognizes rock climbing as an activity in the RDN parks and trails master plan, so climbing access to all crags on Mount Benson appears to be secure.
- Approach: There are three main approaches:
- Northwood, Longview, Lower Benson, and Upper Benson Crags: Park at the end of Northwood Rd.
- Wakesiah Wall and Witchcraft/Dawg Wall: Park at the RDN parking lot near the end of Benson View Rd.
- Westwood Ridge Crag: Start at the Westwood Lake beach parking area.
4. Nanaimo River
- Description: Comprised of Sunny Side and Dark Side, Nanaimo River is one of Nanaimo’s oldest crags, with original routes dating back to the late 1980s. Sunny Side features fairly solid conglomerate rock, while Dark Side boasts very solid sandstone, offering some of the best rock quality on Vancouver Island.
- Climbing Types: Bouldering, sport climbing, and trad climbing.
- Key Spots: Sunny Side and Dark Side.
- Difficulty: V1 to V10.
- Local Beta: Sunny Side is warm and best climbed in spring and fall. Dark Side is shady and ideal for summer climbing. The area is on private property, so climbers should leave no trace and maintain a low profile to ensure continued access.
- Access Issues: Private tolerated. Approach is less than 5 minutes from the parking area.
5. Duke Point Boulders
- Description: Duke Point offers excellent sandstone bouldering with problems ranging from V0 to V12. The area is divided into three main sections: Center Stage, Estuary, and Stage Right.
- Climbing Types: Bouldering.
- Key Spots: Center Stage, Estuary, Stage Right.
- Difficulty: V0 to V12.
6. Romper Room Indoor Rock Climbing Centre
For those days when the weather isn't cooperating or you prefer an indoor setting, the Romper Room Indoor Rock Climbing Centre in Nanaimo is a great option. It offers a wide range of climbing walls and routes suitable for all skill levels, from beginners to advanced climbers. The facility is well-equipped with climbing gear and offers classes and training sessions to help climbers improve their skills. The friendly and knowledgeable staff make it an ideal place to learn and practice climbing techniques in a controlled environment.
7. Comox Lake
- Description: Comox Lake offers an array of climbing opportunities, including both bouldering and sport climbing. The area is known for its beautiful scenery and diverse climbing options, making it a popular destination for climbers on Vancouver Island.
- Climbing Types: Bouldering and sport climbing.
- Local Beta: The climbing around Comox Lake includes a mix of routes suitable for different skill levels. The area is particularly scenic, providing a great backdrop for climbing. It’s recommended to check local climbing forums or connect with local climbing groups for the most current information and access details.
For more up-to-date info regarding climbs on Vancouver Island, check out Sendage: Vancouver Island or the Crag.
Local Bouldering Etiquette
- Leave No Trace: Pack out all trash, including chalk wrappers and tape.
- Respect Wildlife: Keep a respectful distance from animals and do not disturb their habitats.
- Stay on Trails: Use established trails to prevent erosion and protect the environment.
- Clean Holds: Use a brush to clean chalk and dirt off holds after climbing to maintain the rock for others.
- Share Beta: Help fellow climbers by sharing useful information about routes and conditions.
Essential Gear Recommendations
Whether you're just starting or you're a seasoned climber, having the right gear can make all the difference in your climbing experience. Here are some essential items you'll need for bouldering near Parksville:
Climbing Shoes
Choosing the right climbing shoes is crucial for your performance and comfort. Here are some top picks for different skill levels:- Beginner: La Sportiva Tarantula - These shoes are perfect for beginners, offering comfort and durability without compromising on performance. The Velcro straps make them easy to put on and take off, ideal for those who are new to climbing.
- Intermediate: Five Ten Anasazi - The Five Ten Anasazi shoes are a great choice for intermediate climbers. They provide excellent grip and support, helping you tackle more challenging routes with confidence.
- Advanced: Scarpa Instinct VS - For advanced climbers, the Scarpa Instinct VS offers exceptional precision and control. These shoes are designed for high-performance climbing, with a snug fit and aggressive profile that allows for precise foot placements.
Crash Pads
Crash pads are essential for bouldering, providing a cushioned landing to protect you from falls. Here are some recommended options:- Metolius Session II - The Metolius Session II is a versatile and durable crash pad, offering excellent protection and easy transport with its foldable design.
- Black Diamond Circuit - This crash pad is lightweight and compact, making it easy to carry to your favorite bouldering spots. Despite its size, it provides ample protection for falls.
- Organic Climbing Big Pad - Known for its high-quality materials and custom designs, the Organic Climbing Big Pad offers superior protection and a large landing area, making it a favorite among serious boulderers.
Chalk and Chalk Bags
Chalk helps keep your hands dry and improve your grip on the rocks. Here are some top picks:- FrictionLabs Chalk - FrictionLabs chalk is renowned for its purity and performance, providing a superior grip that lasts longer than standard chalk.
- Black Diamond Mojo Chalk Bag - The Black Diamond Mojo Chalk Bag is a classic choice, featuring a simple yet functional design with a drawstring closure to keep your chalk secure.
Additional Gear
- Brush: A climbing brush is essential for cleaning holds and improving grip. The Sublime Climbing Brush is a popular choice, known for its durability and effective cleaning.
- Tape: Climbing tape is useful for protecting your fingers and treating minor injuries. Beast Tape is highly recommended for its strong adhesive and flexibility.
- Guidebook: Investing in a good local bouldering guidebook can provide detailed information on routes and locations. The Nanaimo Crags Guidebook or Comox Valley Climbs are excellent resources for climbers exploring the area.
Preparing for Your Bouldering Adventure
- Weather Check: Always check the weather forecast before heading out. Rain can make the rocks slippery and unsafe.
- First Aid Kit: Carry a basic first aid kit, including bandages, antiseptic wipes, and blister treatment.
- Hydration and Nutrition: Bring plenty of water and snacks to keep your energy up during your climbing session.
- Maps and Navigation: Have a map of the area and a GPS device or smartphone to ensure you can find your way back, especially in more remote locations like Errington and Horne Lake.
- Local Climbing Community: Connect with local climbing groups and forums for up-to-date information on conditions and events. Vancouver Island Climbing on Facebook is a great place to start.
Embrace the Adventure
Bouldering near Parksville offers a unique blend of physical challenge and natural beauty. Whether you're scaling the rugged boulders of Nanoose Bay or exploring the secluded spots in Errington, the experience is sure to be rewarding. Remember to respect the environment, leave no trace, and enjoy the stunning landscapes that Vancouver Island has to offer.With its diverse bouldering spots and picturesque settings, the Parksville area is a bouldering paradise waiting to be explored. Whether you're staying at Beach Acres Resort or visiting for the day, these top bouldering locations offer something for every climber. So gear up, embrace the adventure, and discover the thrill of bouldering on Vancouver Island.
